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The Process of Germination
Sun Signs & Moon Phases for February 2010
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Date-	Status	Headline	Summary	URL to outside resource	Content	URL Name
2010-02-11 11:35:32	1	The Process of Germination	Germination of Seeds		The Process of Germination Germination, a fascinating transformation, begins after seed dormancy has been broken. Specific environmental conditions, which vary along species lines, must be met before a seed will be receptive to even the most favorable environment. In areas with cold winters, Stratification is essential to embryonic survival. In mild winter areas, seeds develop much tougher coatings and Stratification is crucial. In the desert south west, seeds often require the heat of fire before they will germinate. Other seeds, which develop inside of fruits, must be thoroughly dried before growth can begin. Once dormancy ends, all seeds require water, oxygen and favorable temperatures. As water enters the seed, embryonic cells begin growing and dividing. Gibberellic acid, a naturally occurring hormone, begins converting stored starches into the sugars necessary for growth. As embryonic development continues, the zygote begins the process of respiration. If the seed is exposed to too much water now, suffocation occurs and growth ends. If conditions remain favorable, soon a terminal root will emerge, signaling the need for external sources of nutrients. If you've started seeds in a soil free environment, now is the time for planting. Also, begin giving a weak fertilizer solution, a mister works best when watering around delicate plant tissues. Soon a stem and cotyledons will pull themselves free of the soil. Once emerged, the seedling will be desperately seeking light. Nine hours of bright light fosters the healthiest photosynthetic response. If light is too weak, or far away, weak, stringy seedlings are what you'll get. During this delicate period, before establishment, a constant temperature of seventy- five degrees, and a careful attention to watering, will help prevent damping off. February is the perfect time to begin ordering seed catalogues. Available from countless internet sources, these sellers offer a much larger selection of unique and heirloom varieties. You'll find seeds best suited to your growing zone if you order from regional sources. Some sellers even mail them to you for free. If your seeds arrive too early for planting, they can be placed into a zippered sandwich bag and stored in the crisper drawer of your fridge. When stored properly, many seeds remain healthy and viable for years. from Down the Lane, Volume 11, Issue 11.
2010-01-02 12:36:50	1	Indoor Gardening	Moving towards the light.		Moving towards the light According to the Second Law of Thermodynamics, without the conversion of solar radiation into usable energy, life would quickly cease. Plants are the only eukaryotes that have the organelles necessary for this conversion. From this chemical conversion, plants derive the necessary energy to produce auxins for growth, as well as the conversion of carbon dioxide into oxygen during their process of respiration. Phototrophism, or the leaning of plants towards the light, is a response to the uneven production of auxins along stems. Directional light, that doesn't vary over time, causes the side facing the light to grow more quickly. This hormonal response causes the faster growing side of stems to bend and twist towards the light. Outside this rarely happens because the sun's radiation crosses the horizon, spreading light evenly across stem surfaces. Sunflowers seem to defy this rule during the process of heliotrophism. However, this process is not a response to hormones, nor is it caused by uneven growth along stems. Heliotrophism is caused by changes in turgor pressure that occur at the cellular level along the underside and base of leaves. When atmospheric moisture surrounds and enters cell walls during osmosis, plants react by turning to face the light. This process is a diurnal change, similar but opposite from diurnal wilting often seen in squash plants. Plants growing indoors tend to show exaggerated phototrophism. When the lack of light is severe enough, the process of etoliation begins. When this occurs, plants grow unusually long internodes, coupled with a marked decrease in foliage. Also, when etoliation is initiated, plants use their stores of carbohydrates, necessary for growth, to respirate. If plants don't receive more light, etoliation can lead to death. To counteract this, you can use fluorescent lighting, or you can grow plants on a windowsill that receives light from the west. If you have bright light indoors, you may really enjoy growing African Violets. This houseplant is considered by many to be among the easiest to grow, even for beginners. Keep the soil moist, testing by touching the surface, but not wet. After watering, be sure to empty the saucer beneath the planter, as African Violets are prone to root rot. If you have soft lighting, you on the other hand may prefer to grow the philodendron. Philodendrons grow wild along the ground in the tropical rainforests of the West Indies. Because of the multitude of tall trees, and other plant life, being so low to the ground means these plants flourish in low light conditions. Philodendrons require very little water, and are easy to maintain.
2010-01-02 12:17:09	1	Gardening With The Goddess	Compost: Mother Nature's Real Gold		GARDENING WITH THE GODDESS Compost: Mother Nature’s Real Gold by BellaDonna Oya One of the unloveliest things you will ever find in a garden is compost. Even gardeners who love using it can’t deny that it isn’t ‘pretty’, and even a wet dog smells better than a compost pile that’s not finished or not curing properly. So it’s hard to believe that people would actually write poetry about it! But here is part of a fairly long poem on compost by Walt Whitman: "Behold this compost! Behold it well! Perhaps every mite has once form’d part of a sick person—Yet behold! The grass of spring covers the prairies, The bean bursts noiselessly through the mould in the garden, The delicate spear of the onion pierces upward, The apple-buds cluster together on the apple-branches, The resurrection of the wheat appears with pale visage out of its graves, The tinge awakes over the willow-tree and the mulberry-tree… Out of its little hill faithfully rise the potato’s dark green leaves, Out of its hill rises the yellow maize-stalk—the lilacs bloom in the door-yards; The summer growth is innocent and disdainful above all those strata of sour dead." About five weeks ago, I finally began MY compost pile. The first few weeks, nothing much happened, and I realized I wasn’t doing something right. When it’s working, things decay; when they don’t, it means there’s a problem. So I fiddled with it constantly, adding a bit of this and a lot of that, trying to get the ‘recipe’ just right. This last weekend, I opened my bin and stirred it with a forked thingy I bought just for the compost. From the bottom area of the pile, a rich, black, crumbly, soil-like substance came up, smelling of freshly damp earth. I felt like I’d just given birth, in a sense, to more earth. And I fell in love with it, as a mother loves her newborn child. "Mother Gaia, now I understand… The cycle of life, death and decay is needed to bring forth new life, And by giving back to the earth I am a part of that cycle. Thank you for the gift of co-creation with You." BellaDonna Oya lives in Hayward, CA, where she runs a small eclectic coven. Her hobbies are gardening, belly dance, crocheting, Renaissance faires, travel, and cats (she has ten). She has a Master's Degree in Anthropology, and is fascinated by mummies and ancient Egypt. She has travelled to Ireland, Jamaica, Eleuthera, and Mexico, and hopes someday to visit Crete, Malta, Egypt and Delphi. She is a Level II Adept of The Sacred Three Goddess School, and is currently working on Level III.
2009-07-06 13:02:59	1	Growing A Vegetable Garden On Your Patio	How To Grow A Vegetable Garden On Your Patio.		Growing a vegetable garden on your patio The best summer meals are made with the freshest ingredients. Anyone can create these meals with their own garden fresh produce. The vegetables best suited to growing in 5 gallon tubs are what you'll want to buy. These days with modern advances in horticulture, we aren't limited to patio tomatoes anymore, we can grow full size tomatoes and still grow a vigorous plant, teeming with an abundant harvest, all in a container by the front door. The first thing you'll want to do, is make sure you pick sturdy containers, that have at least 4 drainage holes. Most vegetables will become stunted and don't produce well if the pot is any less than 20 inches in diameter. The general rule of thumb when picking containers for growing vegetables, is the bigger the better. The only exception to this would be containers for growing greens, or lettuce, which can tolerate long flat containers with a shallower depth. Of course, by now, you know that the type of soil is going to make a big difference in your plant’s health and productivity. There are many types of soil on the market, but garden soil doesn't do work well for container grown vegetables. 100% garden soil tends to become too compacted, forcing oxygen out of the soil, and leading to poor drainage and unhealthy roots. For the healthiest plants, simple is best, buy Miracle Grow potting soil. For each 5 gallon container, you will need 5-6 gallons of potting soil. Also, if you plan to move the containers around, you should purchase dollies, as they will be quite heavy, and dropping them could severely damage your plants. Always position your containers so that plants receive a minimum of 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Container grown plants need frequent watering, check them daily. Don't allow the soil to dry out completely, especially during the first week after transplanting, when roots are getting established. Always water after transplanting, or sewing seeds, and apply fertilizer to reduce transplant shock. After plants become established, fertilize again when they are halfway grown, and again when they bloom, or 3 weeks before harvest time. Liquid fertilizers work best, especially for use with a watering can. Miracle grow is the most balanced, and easiest to use. Do remember that even though the containers are quite large, you don't want to over crowd the plants, or the roots won't have enough room to grow. My recommendation is to only plant two vegetables per pot, unless you are growing the big beefsteak tomatoes, then I'd only plant one vegetable per pot. Remember to check you plants daily for signs of insect damage, and treat the plants only when needed with insecticidal soap. Below I'll list the most commonly grown vegetables for container culture, and the days to harvest for each vegetable. Please keep in mind that if you are starting your vegetables from seed, rather than from transplants, you will need to add another 4-6 weeks to the days to harvest. I'd recommend starting with transplants, unless you live in an area where it’s warm well into October. Tomatoes- (Cherry, Grape, Patio, Better Boy, Early Girl, Big Beef) – 90-130 days to harvest- (Plant deeply, pinch off the lower branches, and plant at least half of the stem below the soil. This stimulates more vigorous roots to grow further up the stem, creating a healthier, more productive plant). Beans- (Snap, pole, or bush) - 45-65 days to harvest Cucumbers- (any bush variety) - 50-70 days to harvest Squash- (Any summer, or bush variety) - 50-70 days to harvest- (one per pot) Peppers- (any variety) - 90-120 days to harvest- (hot peppers can be planted closer together than Bell Peppers, so you can have 3-4 plants per pot) Eggplant- (any variety) - 90-120 days to harvest- (eggplants produce star shaped purple flowers)-(one per pot) Onions- (bunching varieties) – 80-100 days to harvest (do not plant onions near beans)- (8 per pot) Carrots- ( Nantes, Thumbelina, or any of the shorter varieties) – 50-60 days to harvest ( 6-8 per pot) Greens- (collards)- tolerant of hot weather- 60 days to harvest (4 per pot) From Tara, Down The Lane, Volume 11, Issue 4.

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